Buying a Tennis Racquet -- Issues to Consider
The following article discusses various criteria
individuals may want to examine when considering buying a
new tennis racquet. The following topics are covered:
* Price
* Where to buy (mail order vs. local store)
* Racquet size
* Flexibility
* Racquet material
* Vibration dampening
* Racquet strings and stringing
* Grips
* Head balance
* Weight
If you are looking for a racquet, the short advice is to
hit with as many racquets as you can, and pick the one you
like best. Like anything, choosing racquets is a highly
subjective decision, and you will get pickier as you get
better in tennis. As a beginner, you may not have as much
information as you would like. This article summarizes
issues you should think about when buying a racquet.
Price
Racquets range anywhere from 30 US dollars all the way up
to 250 US dollars and more. They may roughly be divided
into two classes - those costing $90 US or less, and those
costing more than $90 US. Generally, a reasonable racquet
will cost at least $90 US (not on sale). Most racquets in
this price range are made of graphite material or a
graphite composite. A few inexpensive racquets may be
composed of a metallic material such as aluminum. Usually
the more expensive racquets (200 to 300 US dollars) will
have fancier features, but a less expensive model may well
suit your needs.
The "racquet size" refers to the area bounded by the oval
part of the racquet frame (the racquet head). Sizes may be
roughly divided into four categories:
* Standard (approx 66 sq. inches -- the old wood racquets)
* Midsize (80-90 sq. inches)
* "Mid-overs" or "Mid-plus" (95-105 sq. inches)
* Oversize (Approx 110 sq. inches)
(1 square inch = 6.452 square cm)
You can no longer find the standard size racquets which are
the old wooden racquets of the past. Ever since Pam Shriver
and others started using larger-sized racquets, other pros
and amateurs have made the switch.
What does size mean to you? An oversized racquet means you
have more area to hit the ball, and the racquet is more
forgiving on off-center shots. Many baseliners use oversize
racquets because they hit many strokes and tend to utilize
the extra area to help with topspin production. These
racquets can lead to sloppy stroke production and can be
too powerful for some players. This is usually not a big
problem for most players.
A midsize racquet is usually a little better for volleyers
who play against hard hitters because it provides a bit of
control. On the other hand, the oversized racquet still
provides more area to hit with, and some serve and
volleyers will use oversized racquets.
The mid-over is a compromise -- more powerful than the
midsize but not as powerful as the oversized. These
racquets are becoming more popular than midsize racquets.
Some companies have introduced super-oversized models,
which are a bit larger than oversize (typically about
115-120 sq. in.). There are even a few models around 130
sq. inches, which are probably much too big for reasonable
play and should be avoided. The best way to determine the
right size for you is to play-test with the different
sizes. There are a great number and variety of mid-over and
oversize models to choose from.
Widebodies
The "widebody revolution" started in the late 80's with
models such as the Wilson Profile. Different companies have
produced various racquets that vary in their widebody
construction (e.g., equally wide - Classic Beam; wide on
top - Prince; wide on bottom - Head).
Generally, Wider -> More powerful, stiffer, more
expensive. Wide- bodies are usually 18mm (very narrow) up
to 30mm wide. The general rule of thumb is that the quicker
and longer a stroke motion you have, the narrower a racquet
you should use (not a hard-and-fast rule, though).
It should be noted that you are not going to find
non-widebodies around. Almost every racquet is wide to some
extent. One problem with widebodies occurs when people try
to hit the ball edge on as in extreme sliced shots or
topspin shots. You tend to hit the side of the racquet a
lot more. You can compensate through a bit of practice.
Extra Long Racquets
Manufacturers of racquets have been looking for many
different ways to add power to racquets. The aluminum
racquet, the oversized racquet, the graphite racquet,
widebodies, and now extra long racquets. A standard racquet
measures 27 inches, and the rules permit a racquet to be as
long as 32 inches. (Note: The International Tennis
Federation has proposed a reduction in maximum allowable
racquet length from 32 inches to 29 inches). The new longer
racquets are typically about 28 inches long.
Given that most tennis racquet manufacturers now produce a
longer racquet, it's safe to say that this idea does work.
It seems to help add a little power to the serve. The only
tricky part is making sure that you can still hit the same
kind of stroke with the longer racquets that you can with a
normal racquet. It seems manufacturers have been paying
attention to this.
Stiff or flexible
Stiff racquets bend and torque a lot less than flexible
racquets and thus usually generate more power. Stiff
racquets will also produce a bit more accuracy than a
flexible racquet because they twist less on impact so the
response is more predictable. Primarily though, flexibility
translates to comfort. Stiff racquets tend to be more
uncomfortable (i.e., produce more shock to the arm) than
flexible racquets. The widebodies all tend to be fairly
stiff racquets though many of these racquets now have some
kind of dampening system (see Vibration Dampening below).
Material
Racquets are usually composed of graphite and metal. There
are no racquets made of wood being made today. Ceramic
racquets, which used to be made, are reported too brittle
and are more likely to break than graphite racquets. Almost
all metal racquets are junior sized racquets or lower
priced racquets. Graphite racquets are sometimes combined
with other materials such as fiberglass to affect the
flexibility. Generally, if you want to play "seriously",
you choose graphite. The graphite racquets tend to have
better vibration technology than metal.
Vibration dampening
Vibration dampening appears to be the current industry fad
(e.g., Head - Vibrasorb, Dunlop - ISIS, Prince - liquid
crystal polymers). The method for dampening a racquet's
vibration is provided either in the material of the
racquet, the material underneath the grip, or some method
of "isolating" the head of the racquet with the body.
Vibration dampening affects the "feel" of a racquet by
alleviating the "shock" of ball impact and can help
alleviate a common cause of tennis elbow (improper stroke
production is another cause).
You can also buy vibration dampeners which can be sponge
inserts, plastic inserts, or you can even tie a rubber band
to the racquet like Agassi. These dampeners probably work,
but it's a matter a personal judgment as to whether you
need these devices.
Strings
Basically there are three kinds of strings you can get: (1)
Nylon, (2) Gut, and (3) Synthetic Gut. Nylon is cheap and
durable, but it is not overly resilient and tends to lose
tension before it snaps. Gut is the choice of many pros,
but it is rather expensive and generally not recommended
unless you can afford to buy in bulk and have your own
stringing machine. Gut strings are resilient, hold tension
better, and players like the feel better. However, humidity
affects the strings and cause them to degrade. Gut doesn't
last as long as nylon.
The compromise is synthetic strings. Basically, gut is made
by long thin strands of cow or sheep gut, and it is twisted
together in much the same way twine or string is made.
Synthetic gut does the same thing with nylon strings to
achieve the same effect. They cost more than nylon but less
than real gut. They play and hold tension better than
nylon.
Strings come in various thicknesses, called "gauges." You
have 15, 15L, 16, 16L, and 17. Larger numbers mean thinner
strings. "L" means light and can be thought of as half as
size (so 15L can be considered 15 1/2). Thick strings have
less resilience and feel than thin strings but last longer.
So-called "topspin" strings are mostly gimmicky and should
probably be avoided. These are rough surfaced strings
designed to grab the ball better. The feel or durability of
the strings are not necessarily improved.
Cost of strings range from about $10-$15 (US) for nylon to
$12-$30 for synthetic gut to $30-$50 for gut strings.
Strings can be purchased in large reels for stringing at
home for less.
String snapping
The main cause of strings breaking is excessive spin. If
you play with lots of spin, you cause the strings to slide.
Under the tensions these strings are under, this causes
notches which you can actually see. The notches eventually
break. The harder you hit, and the more spin you hit, the
more likely the strings will break sooner.
One way to avoid this problem (or at least prolong string
life) is to use inserts called "String-a-lings" that
prevent the strings from sliding too much. You can place
this device at points where the string crosses. Another
possibility is to use thicker strings or to string at a
higher tension (next section). Higher tensions means less
string sliding but can mean a greater likelihood that a
string will snap (because of higher tensile pressure).
String tension
Note: 1 pound (lb) = 0.448 kg * 9.8 m/s^2 = 4.39 Newtons
String tension is usually measured in pounds (in the US).
Recommended string tensions have varied with the times but
these days usually run in the range of the mid 60's
(pounds) for oversize and high 50's to low 60's for
mid-overs.
How do you choose a tension? If you're unsure, choose a
tension that is halfway between the manufacturer's ranges.
You can then adjust up or down until you find the tension
most suitable for you. Exceeding the limits of
manufacturer's recommended string tensions might void the
racquet warranty (check with the racquet company if you
have questions), but most racquets can withstand a great
range of tensions before damage sets in. Higher tensions
will probably cause a little more damage than lower
tensions.
Basically, higher tensions decrease the size of the
sweetspot and reduce the power (thus increasing control a
bit). The higher the tension, the more boardlike the feel.
Some people like this. Desired tension is pretty much a
matter of personal taste, and as you improve the level of
your game, you are apt to notice small fluctuations in
string tensions. Also note that the same string tension
will have a different "feel" for different racquets.
Overwraps
Most racquet grips used to be made of leather and would
become hard to grip when the pores became clogged with dirt
from your sweat. A solution to this problem is the use of
an overgrip. Overgrips are *temporary* grips, and it is not
recommended that you attempt to actually replace a
racquet's existing grip.
Overgrips fit over the existing grip (and thus increase the
grip size a bit - see next section) and absorb the sweat
better. Some overgrips are "tacky" or sticky. Some are even
essentially gauze with tape and some sticky powder. They
should be replaced about every five times of playing or
sooner. Otherwise, they get a little icky. Some overgrips
feel rubbery, others cloth like, others a bit powdery. They
are about 5 US dollars for a set of three.
Nowadays there are synthetic grips which are much easier to
grip than leather, thus possibly removing the need for
overgrips.
Replacement Grips
Replacement grips are meant to replace the original
(leather or synthetic) grip that your racquet came with.
Typically, this requires someone with experience to do this
for you. Replacing a grip requires more skill than using
overwraps. Replacement grips should cost less than 20 US
dollars.
Grip size
There are, generally speaking, three basic grip sizes: 4
3/8, 4 1/2, and 4 5/8 inches (1 inch = 2.54 cm). Despite
the 1/8 inch difference in circumference, you can really
notice the difference. A general rule of thumb is to choose
the largest grip you feel comfortable with, but again there
are exceptions to every rule. In some cases you might can
obtain grip sizes as diverse as 4 1/8 or 4 7/8 inches
through a mail order company or a local pro shop.
Head balance
Take a racquet and find the length half way. A racquet is
typically 27 inches long so this is 13 1/2 inches. If the
racquet balances halfway, then it is even balance. If it
tilts to the racquet head, it is head heavy. If it tilts
toward the handle, it is head light. The balance of a
racquet can make two racquets of equal weight feel
different. The head heavy racquet will feel heavier than
the lighter one when you swing (think of the difference in
holding a hammer at either end).
A head light racquet is better for serve and volleyers who
need to move the racquet quickly. A head heavy racquet is a
little better for baseliners who want to place more mass
behind the racquet. Most racquets are only marginally head
heavy or head light.
Some terminology. Find the half way point (13 1/2 inches).
If the balance point of your racquet is 3/8 inch closer to
the racquet head than the halfway point, then it is 3
points head heavy (1 point = 1/8 inch). If the racquet
balances 3/8 inch closer to the handle, then is is 3 point
head light.
Weight
As a rule, the trend in weight is toward lighter and
lighter racquets, particularly with the introduction of
graphite. Racquets right now weigh about 11 and 1/2 ounces
and decreasing with time. Some racquets are even less than
10 ounces. The lighter a racquet, the easier it is to
swing. However, light racquets place less weight behind the
shot, and hence you have to swing faster to get a more
powerful shot. This has been the main way (along with
balance) to tame the power of widebodies.
Conclusion
This discussion is not meant to provide you with the method
for selecting your racquet, rather to present the various
issues you will confront as you make your choice. Good luck
with the racquet hunt.
4.2 - Explanation of Racquet Grips
(This material provided by Charles Lin, clin@eng.umd.edu,
and modified by
csmith@cc.gatech.edu.)
It is a bit difficult to explain the various racquet grips
without a little "show and tell," so to speak, but the
following discussion may be of help to beginners or players
who are experimenting with racquet grips. Some diagrams to
help with the discussion:
Here's two views of a racquet, with numbered labels shown
which are referred to in discussions below.
---------
/ 1 \ _______
View from / 8 2 \ grip / \
bottom / \ 1__________/ racquet \
------ | | |__________ face |
racquet | 7 3 | 5 \ /
butt | | \_______/
\ /
\ 6 4 / "Face-On" view... racquet face is
\ 5 / in the same plane as imaginary
-------- line connecting sides 1 and 5.
The grips are explained below by relating the knuckle of
the index finger to the relative racquet butt position the
knuckle lines up over. In other words, to obtain a certain
grip, place the index knuckle on the indicated butt edge
and then slide your hand upward on the racquet grip. In
case there's any confusion, here's a diagram of the (right)
index finger:
thumb (located about here)
--
-
\ ----------------------------------
| | --- \
X ||| | | | | (first finger)
| | --- /
----------------------------------
"X" marks the bottom of the knuckle. Imagine that you are
making a fist, and staring at the knuckles. X is the
location where this bend would occur on the first finger.
Summary of locations (refer to racquet butt diagram for
positions)
--------------------
1 Eastern backhand
1-2 Continental
2 Eastern forehand
2-3 Semi-Western
4 Western
5 Exaggerated Western (note this is also the Eastern
backhand)
The plain numbers like 1, 2, 3 refer to the flat portions
of the grip while the 2-3 refer to the corner. Place the
bottom knuckle of the first finger of your right hand to
get the desired results. Left handers need to number 1
through 8 counter-clockwise rather than clockwise, and the
locations should still hold.
Description of grips
Eastern forehand grip
This is the grip that is considered the classical forehand
grip and is taught mostly in English speaking countries
such as the US. It is also called the shake-hands grip
because you should be able to shake hands with the racquet
(assume the racquet is lying on the floor on its edge). The
grip should also let you hit a ball that is about waist
high and a little in front of you with a "relaxed" grip,
and this grip should leave the face of the racquet
perpendicular to the plane of the ground.
You can hit flat, moderate topspin, to moderately heavy
topspin with this grip. While it is rare to use this grip
for serving, it can be used. It's pretty good for flat
serves, but you need to work at it more to produce spin
shots.
For the remainder of this article, this grip will be
referred to as the "conventional position."
Eastern backhand grip
This grip allows you to place more of your palm behind the
racquet which gives the racquet more stability than using
the Eastern forehand grip. This grip is also commonly
taught. If you hit the ball a little more in front of you
than when you hit the forehand shot (hitting the backhand
"properly" usually requires hitting the ball a little more
in front than the forehand), and the ball is at waist
height, then you will be able to hit the ball with a
relaxed grip with the plane of the racquet perpendicular to
the ground.
The Eastern backhand grip is often used for serving. It
feels awkward at first, but allows for serving with slice
(since it feels like hitting the ball edge on initially).
Continental grip
The continental grip is halfway between the Eastern
forehand grip and the Eastern backhand grip and used to be
much more popular (in the 1960's) than it is now. The
advantages are that you can use one grip for the forehand
and backhand. This is especially useful when volleying when
you require fast reflexes and don't have time to switch
grips. The disadvantage is that the grip is more "open" on
the forehand side than the Eastern backhand grip. In other
words, grip to the "conventional position". Then, switch to
a Continental grip. The racquet should tilt upwards
slightly.
If you're still not sure what an "open" position is, try
the following exercise: sit at a desk, turn left so that
the desk is on your right-hand side, and place your right
hand on and perpendicular to the desk (as if you were going
to do a karate chop). Tilt your hand a bit upward so that
the palm faces upward. Imagining that your palm is the
racquet face, this is an "open" racquet position. If you
tilt your hand the other way so that the palm aims
downward, you'll have a closed or more closed position. The
more "open" the racquet face is, the more "up" it points,
and vice versa.
The Continental grip is useful for hitting late forehand
shots because it allows you to hit late shots with a more
perpendicular face. Note that the "idealness" of a grip
(i.e., hitting it with a perpendicular face) depends on the
location of where you hit the ball. The Eastern forehand
and backhand grip are best for waist-high shots hit just a
little in front of the body.
This grip is also used for serving for similar reason to
the Eastern backhand.
Western (forehand) grip
This is known as the frying-pan grip. Imagine you lay the
racquet down flat as if it were a frying pan. Lift it up.
This grip should be pretty close to the Western forehand
grip. Repopularized by Borg, this is the grip of most
players who like to hit with a lot of topspin (though
Connors uses this grip and he hits it flat). In the
conventional position, the Western forehand grip would
almost be faced down (parallel to the ground).
You can hit with a perpendicular face if the ball is near
shoulder height and a bit in front, or if the wrist and arm
is contorted. The act of changing from a closed position to
the perpendicular position in a smooth upward stroke helps
to produce topspin. The grip plays one role in hitting
topspin, but it is not the most crucial part. You can hit
topspin with a Continental grip too, but most people hit it
with a Western grip.
Semi-Western (forehand grip)
This grip is about halfway between a Eastern forehand and a
Western forehand. If you used the conventional position,
the racquet would be at about a 45 degree angle faced down.
It's halfway being perpendicular and being parallel to the
ground. A lot of self taught players use this grip. Often
players with big forehands use this grip (though Eastern
and Western grips will both work).
Exaggerated Western (forehand grip)
This is a pretty awkward grip. It is more clockwise than
the Western grip, and you can use the same face to hit a
backhand too. Note that most people hit forehands and
backhands with both sides of the racquet. The exaggerated
Western forehand grip meant for those who want excessive
topspin and the grip that goes with it.
Two handed backhand grip
Typically, you use an Eastern backhand grip for the right
hand (for a right hander) and a left-handed (using the
adjustment in the diagram mentioned above) Eastern forehand
grip for the left hand. This allows you to remove the left
hand if needed to hit the backhand, and hit it one- handed.
Some players use a forehand grip with the right hand, and
the left hand is a left-handed forehand grip. This makes it
easier to hit returns of serves, since the left hand can be
removed and a conventional forehand hit, but is a little
more difficult for hitting a one-handed shot.
A final note
Although these grips are associated with certain styles of
play (Eastern and Continental for flat forehands. Western
for topspin forehands), there are players who use these
grips for other styles (Lendl and Sampras hit Eastern
forehands but with topspin. Connors hits flat Western
forehands. Martina and Rod Laver hit topspin forehands with
Continental grips). The basic rule of thumb is this,
though. Given a "relaxed" grip, the idea position for a
Eastern forehand is waist high, a little in front. The
ideal Continental position is a little late or a little
behind you. The ideal Western is a bit more in front and
about shoulder height. However, with the Western and
Continental grips, there is usually a compensation by the
person so that one does not use a "relaxed" position, but
still hits with a perpendicular face.
Facts About Frames and Strings
Here are some good facts for us tennis players to know:
Racquet Facts:
* Heavier frames generate more power.
* Heavier frames vibrate less.
* Heavier frames have larger sweetspots.
* Stiffer frames generate more power.
* Stiffer frames have larger sweetspots.
* Stiffer frames transmit more of the shock load to the arm
than flexible frames.
* Stiffer frames provide more uniform ball response across
the entire string bed.
* Larger frames generate more power.
* Larger frames are more resistant to twisting.
* Larger frames have larger sweetspots.
* Larger frames break strings sooner due to the string
lengths.
* Longer frames have higher swing weight than the same
frames that are shorter hence the longer frames are less
maneuverable.
* Longer frames generate more power than the same frame
that is shorter.
* It is recommended by the USRSA that widebody frames use
multifilament strings (ie. "soft" strings) or gut to
compensate for some of the stiff attributes hence better
playability.
* It is recommended by the USRSA to string widebody frames
at lower tension for better playability and to help keep
strings from breaking too soon.
String Facts:
* Lower tensions generate more power.
* Higher tensions generate more ball control.
* Longer string lengths (string bed) produce more power.
* Decresed string density (fewer strings) generates more
power.
* Thinner strings generate more power.
* Elastic strings generate more power and absorb more shock
at impact.
* Softer strings or strings with softer coating tend to
vibrate less.
* Thinner strings tend to produce more spin by biting the
ball more.
* Decreased string density (fewer strings) generates more
spin.
* Multifilament strings are more elastic than solid core
strings.
* Longer strings on a string bed move more hence break
easier (see larger frames from above).
* Solid core strings are more durable than multifilament
strings with kevlar string technology being the most
durable.
* Kevlar strings are the stiffest and least flexible.
* Multifilament strings play better than solid core
strings.
* Multifilament strings lose tension more quickly than
strings with a center core.
* Textured strings tend to produce more spin.
* Gut strings hold tension the best.
* Gut strings are the most fragile strings comparing to
other similar gauged strings.
4.4 - Lead Tape and Its Application
As a reference, lets draw a clock on our racquet's head.
Let 12 o'clock be at be the center of our racquet head's
tip and 6 o'clock be at the center of our racquet head's
throat.
* Lead tape *normally* weighs 0.5 gram per inch.
* 8 inches of standard 1/2-inch [wide] lead tape adds
around 3.5 grams of weight (28 grams = 1 ounce).
* "H" shaped tape that fits around grommets weighs 3 grams
each.
* To add power, add weight at 12 o'clock (to equalize
balance, if desired, place weight near the butt of the
racquet - under the grip/wrap).
* For less dramatic perception of weight change, add weight
at 10:30 and 1:30 (shoulder area). Note that the sweetspot
will follow the direction of the added weight - so if your
sweetspot is low and you tend to hit closer to the tip of
your racquet, then adding weight near the tip (12 o'clock)
will bring the sweetspot towards 12 o'clock.
* To gain torsional resistance (to help steady off-center
shots), add weight at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock.
* If you want a heavier racquet without changing the feel
or playing characteristics, add weight at the throat (6
o'clock) or closest to the frame's even-balance point.
* The best place for lead tape is under the bumper guard or
inside the head's rim (or throat area if applicable) so
that the lead tape won't be scratched.
* The power element is produced with added weight because
the extra mass tends to propel the ball deeper.
* Control is achieved with added weight because the ball
beds or grips deeper into the string face at contact adding
1 to 2 milliseconds of extra contact time which results in
more reliable placement of the shot.
* Off center hits on too-light a frame tends to twist or
torque the racquet face hence twisting the racquet in the
player's hand. The more weight available to resist the
torsion of off-centered contact, the more energy returned
to the ball rather than energy lost by the ball's control
of the racquet. You not only produce a better shot, but
less stress is being placed on the arm since the racquet
isn't twisting as much on contact.
* 3 to 4 grams is enough weight to *noticeably* increase
power or improve torsional stability and of course you'll
have to adjust to the newly placed weight and its feel on
your serves/strokes which might take a little while.
* If you add 10% more mass, you'll get 10% more torsional
stability according to Steve Davis (Director of Research
and Development for Prince).
* If you want a racquet to *feel* heavy without increasing
its weight very much, add weight to the top and the butt of
the racquet to achieve the *polarized* effect without
offsetting the frame's balance.
* Adding the same amount of weight distributed at the tip
and butt of a racquet will cause the swing weight of that
racquet to increase and feel/ play heavier while adding the
same amount of weight at the center balanced point of the
same racquet will give the player more power without making
the racquet play a lot heavier and the swing weight isn't
affected as much.
* Frames with a greater swingweight tend to feel heavier
and tend to be less maneuverable. However, the greater the
swingweight, the more power available to be generated.
* Steve Davis feels the optimum compromise is to add weight
between 10-11 and 1-2 o'clock on the frame to increase a
frame's swingweight/power and torsional stability.
* Steve Davis suggests a "crude" method to calculate
swingweight as follows: "Multiply the weight of the frame
by the distance of the balance point from the butt end of
the frame. Working in metric units, you'd multiply the
weight in grams by the distance in centimeters. This would
give you a rough estimation and would provide a basis for
comparison from frame to frame."
If I remember correctly, 28 grams = 1 ounce and ~2.54 cm =
1 inch. For my racquet, (say 1/2 a racquet for a long body)
14 inches = ~35.56 cm, 12 ounces = 336 grams, so 336 *
35.56 = 11,948.16 (not sure in what units here). I have had
my racquet's swingweight measured on a Babolat's Racquet
Diagnostic Center (RDC) machine and its swingweight was
somewhere in the mid 300 range (not sure what units Babolat
is using either).
Using the crude method described by Davis above on all
racquets for comparison purposes is probably sufficient
though for people like myself who don't want to spend $4-5K
on a Babolat RDC machine.
* How much weight change is discernible by the average
player? 4 grams is often noticeable among the pros but 10
grams is more realistic for club players.
I am in no way advocating the use of lead tape with your
racquets! This note is for your informational purposes
only. Experimentation is really the only way to arrive at
the best weight, balance and swingweight for an individual
player, and all players are different in their perception
of what feels right.
The materials I've read suggest that players should play
with the heaviest racquet that is *comfortable* and
*maneuverable*. Add weight until your racquet becomes too
heavy to play with then back off small amounts at a time.
You won't have to work as hard playing with a heavier
racquet and heavier racquets are more stable.
4.5 - Racquet Stringing Information
A brief summary of what you need to know:
* stringing can be done by mere mortals
* it's not as easy as it looks
* you can break your frame(s) if
o you make a big mistake (not clamped right)
o you have a cheap machine and it breaks (TR Stringer)
* there are no learn to string books that I know of. You
might get chummy with a local stringer in a pro shop, and
ask him to teach you for free, for money or for beer :)
* you should join the US Racquet Stringers Association,
they provide a big manual with all the patterns you could
ever dream of, good technique tips, and regular updates, as
well as discounts and sometimes freebies. Call them at 619
481 3545. Oh, join before you buy a machine - you will find
the Stringer's Updates are an excellent source for used
machines.
* The Klippermate is an excellent choice for a personal
stringer. It is sturdy, well built, relatively easy to use
(for a tabletop) and well worth the price. As far as
tabletops go, I would hesitate to spend more - I own one
myself. The 2 point mounting system used on the Klippermate
is perfectly acceptable, and according to them, is better
than a 4 or 6 point. The next step up would be a used
upright like an Ektelon or a Winn Pro, for around $500 or
so, if you have the space and need the speed advantage -
you can string quicker with an upright. You will find an ad
for the Klippermate and many other similar machines in the
back of Tennis magazine.
Q: How do I become a 'certified stringer?'
A: By the USRSA (US Racquet Stringers Association). There
are actually 2 types:
* USRSA Certified: anyone can get this if you pass the test
* USRSA CRT (Certified Racquet Technician) You must belong
to an established shop where stringing is performed, and
you must pass a (harder) test. The CRT designation was
created to add credibility to the stringers who work at
shops and therefore charge extra, as opposed to home-based
stringers (like me) who string on the kitchen table and
have no overhead.
You can contact the USRSA at (619) 481-3545.
Q: In a tabletop stringer, such as the Klippermate, is
there any advantage to a 6 clamp mounting system as opposed
to a 2 point?
A: According to Klippermate, no. Even with upright models
you will find differences in the way frames are mounted.
The Winn Pro, for example, uses a 2 point mounting system
with lateral support. The 2 point system used on the
Klippermate works fine, and according to Klipspringer is a
better method. It's sort of like the debate over front vs.
rear wheel drive... No matter what system you use, make
sure your clamps are tight or it won't matter how many
mount points there are :).
Comments on machines:
The USRSA is preparing a review of portable stringing
machines. I've seen a draft of this material and the review
seems to rank the Gamma Pro 100 ($179) at or near the top.
Other machines reviewed that did well were the Alpha Pro
Partner ($200) and the AG Gutterman Easy I ($145). They
also reviewed the Klippermate and did not feel that it was
a good choice for first time stringers. I cannot endorse
one machine over another since I have only used the
Klippermate (in the portable category) but I continue to
use my Klip for my personal stringing with no problems. Do
your research, make sure the company stands behind its
product, and take your time to do a good job, and I'm sure
you'll be a skilled stringer in no time.
